Table of Contents

1. Orientation One in Florence
2. Orientation Two in Florence
3. Florence Hours
4. Weekend Trips, Outside of Florence
5. Day Trips Around Florence

Orientation One in Florence 

• The Money/Conversion. Best exchange rate with a credit card. Watch your purchases.
• Where and how to use the ATMs; cashing travelers’ checks at American Express (V. Dante Aligheria 22r; weekdays 9-5:30 or Sat., 9-12:30) or the Post Office (V. Pellicceria 3 – under the loggia in Piazza Repubblica; M- Sat. 8-11:30 and on Sun. 8:30-9:40). Also, a post office in the train station (8:00-10:00p.m.). Check bank hours/exchange money there.
• Where and how to use the phones; phone cards.
• Electrical current is 220V. Use a “CONVERTER” to convert the voltage, and an ADAPTER to customize the plug. Many students blew out appliances, OR the fuses in the apartments.
• The Language/Customs: saying “Buon Giorno, Buona Sera, Arrivederci, Ciao” as you enter or leave places; be covered to enter churches. Remember words of “Please” (Per Favore), “Thank you” (Grazie), “You’re welcome” (Prego). It’s helpful to know the days of the week when looking at the hours of business, museums, etc. Practice: Parla inglese?
• Business hours: oftentimes places are closed Monday morning and for the midday siesta. Places may close by noon on Saturday, and not open up until Monday at midday. PLAN AHEAD!!!
• Tourist Medical Center: 055-475411 (V. Lorenzo Il Magnifico #59), for medical emergencies. Also, the AVO has emergency medical treatment with free translations; at 055-403126.

English-speaking doctor:

            Dr Stephen Kerr

            Via Porta Rossa 1

            50123 Firenze, Italia (near Piazza Signoria)

            office: 055 288 055

            cell: 335 836 1682

            (From US: 011 39 055 288 055

                      Fax: 011 39 055 211 698)

            Hrs: 3-5 weekdays

                    Mornings by appointment

• The City: 4 Quarters.
• Shopping: Food, Necessities, Fans (Items to be found in a Cartoleria (paper items, pens), Supermercato (grocery store: often you must bring your own bags!), Tabacchi Shop (stamps, phone cards/bus tickets), Farmacia (pharmacy), Viaggio (travel agency), etc.)
• The Train System and the European clock.
• E-mail/hotmail; several internet cafes around the city; Internet train has 18 locations. The V. Porta Rossa, 38 r is the most central.
• The Lavandaria (Laundry); use proper money, bring your own soap.
• Safety in the city: beware of “Gypsies,” street vendors, pickpockets, street artists, entertainers at Republica (as crowds gather, pickpockets are there!).
• Watch out for the motorinas!!! They whip by, close to hitting pedestrians. Also, NEVER take a ride offered from someone on a motorina. Several young ladies have done so with disastrous results.
• Current political situation: there have been peace marches in Italy, mixed feelings about support for Iraq. Please be discreet as an American. Don’t display American flags/symbols. A European can spot an American immediately; when you speak, it confirms it. Be low key and respectful. Florence is full of tourists who are in and out in one day, who are loud and pushy; you’ll be here long term. Florentines put up with the invasion of their city with the summer’s onslaught of tourists, but be courteous.

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Orientation Two in Florence 

• Restaurants, the Coperto charge. Look for the Prezzi Completi price. Look for “Casalingas.” One popular with locals is by Santo Spirito, called “Trattoria La Casalinga” on the V. Dei Michelozzi, 9R (oftentimes will have roladens pulled down). Opens around 19:00 hours. Be in line! It is closed on Sunday. Phone: 055-218624. ** Water is not put on the table. Ice cubes are almost non-existent. When asking for water, they inquire “with or without gas?” With gas is mineral water.
• Bars are excellent places to get espresso/cappuccino or a quick slice of pizza.
• Tipping: the service charge is included in the price, but often Europeans round up the price. If your meal is 8.40 euro, it could be rounded to 9 or 10.
• When you go out and about, it is better to leave your passport in the apt. – hidden. However, DO take it with you when you travel, because pensions and hotels ask for it when you register and keep it while you are there. This is safe and is safer than you carrying it out on the street. Keep a copy – separate from everything else – of your credit card info and the phone numbers (usually on the back of the card), so that if something is stolen, you can report it.
• Toilets: sometimes you have to pay to enter (when you see a plate of change and an attendant). Look for pictures or “Uomini” (men) or “Donne” (women). It’s confusing if you see “Signori” (men) or “Signore” (women).
• The museums: use student cards as much as possible. Check hours!
• The churches: please regard the signs about clothing, taking in food or drink, observing the silence, and taking photographs. Do visit the churches! The Duomo, the Santa Croce church (Michaelangelo and other Florentine greats are buried there), the Santa Maria Novella, and the Carmine – do see!
• Buying souvenirs and gifts will be a fun endeavor. Keep in the mind that the LIMIT for bringing gifts back into the country is $800. It’s just been changed. After this $800, you pay a 10% duty charge. Limits on alcohol: one liter and you must be 21. Limits on tobacco products, also. Go to: customs.treas.gov and look for the “know before you go, duty free exemptions.” Suggestion: DON’T consider mailing items home. This is VERY expensive. You can do it. Private shippers will send anything; the post office is very strict about what they accept. Also, the length of the package plus twice the width of the package cannot exceed 200 cm. keep purchases small, light and packable. Discarding towels/items from your suitcase can be a solution, to pack it in!!
• Tourist Information: Via de’ Tornabuoni 15. Great Info in the “Concierge” guide found in larger hotels. Ask at the desk for a free copy.
• The main train station, the stazione, can be the answer for many questions, as well as providing services in off hours. The police are there, a post office, information, ATMs, etc. also be aware that pickpockets frequent train stations, watching tourists unpack bags, reach for wallets, withdraw cash from an ATM, etc. but, it is a good place to go when all else is closed.
• Florence is famous for leather, 18 karat gold jewelry, beautiful stationery, cameos, ceramics. There is a “Value Added Tax” added to these purchases. The amount that you must purchase before this tax is taken off is 155 euros. Sometimes, it is best to scope out what you want and buy several things together so that you can get back this value added tax. You’ll have to get paperwork stamped at the airport before you leave and mail it back to the shop to prove you left the country.
• Outdoor markets you’ll want to visit: The Straw Market/ “Mercato Nuovo” (V. dell’Ariento; between the Piazza del Repubblica and the Ponte Vecchio). Also, the market that winds its way around the San Lorenzi church is excellent. You can barter. Start at half! There is also a delightful food hall in that area. Often other piazzas have markets you’ll stumble upon.
• Street vendors are usually selling imitation Louis Vutton & Chanel. Often you see them running from the police. Are they without a permit/or are good stolen? BARGIN heavily if you want an item.
• Street addresses: BLACK: residential; RED: business.
• Books: excellent bookstore with English books is located in the Piazza Repubblica. Also, the Paperback Exchange on the V. Fiesolana31r.
• Department stores: Oviesse, near the train station. Some of everything & considered the “cheapest in town.” Also, “Coin” at the V. Calzaiuoli near Orsanmichele (M-Sa, 09:30-20:00, & Sun., 11:00-14:00).
• Gelaterias (ice cream): an excellent one by the Ponte Vecchio, Vivoli by Santa Croce, and Perche Noi.
• Be sure to visit the “Officina Profumo Famaceutica di Santa Maria Novella” on V. Della Scala, 16 n, by the train station. This is how the FBI tracked down Hannibal; he used their famous almond soap when he wrote a letter to Clarice, this almond is from only one variety of tree in Italy. The shop, in and of itself, is very historical and is worth a visit. See paper in “appendix.”
• There is a mall outside of Florence called: I GIGLI. Take the bus.
• Free night life outdoors: Piazza Repubblica, the Ponte Vecchio, & Santo Spirito. Check out the gelateria in the Santo Spirito piazza with great art. AND, to revitalize jazz, FREE concerts at Piazza SS Annuziata, every night! Check out the Piazzale Michaelangelo for a great view and night life fun.
• Go to firenze.net for info on entertainment, exhibitions, student info, and language courses.
• SAFETY/YOUR HEALTH: drink plenty of water and use sunscreen. Watch for signs of heat exhaustion (dizziness, headache, nausea) or heat stroke (extreme rising temperatures). Most Americans are accustomed to air conditioning, which is not common in Europe.
• There is a U.S. consulate in Florence at Lungamo Vespucci 38; open: 09:00-12:30. Go to the state department website at for more info.

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Florence Hours

(According to Rick Steves)

(Check other current information, in case incorrect, but generally these hours have been traditional)

Sunday, Closed: Duomo’s Dome, Science Museum, Museum of Precious Stones

            Closed on 1^st, 3^rd, 5^th Sunday: Museum of San Marco and the Bargello

            Closed on 2^nd and 4^th Sunday: Medici Chapel/Modern Art Gallery (in Pitti Palace)

Monday, Closed: Academia, the Uffizi, Vasari Corridor

What’s open: Duomo Museum, Giotto’s Tower, Brancacci Chapel, Michaelangelo’s House, Dante’s House, Science Museum, Palazzo Vecchio

Tuesday, Closed: Dante’s House, Michaelangelo’s House, and Brancacci Chapel

Wednesday, Closed: Medici Riccardi Palace

Thursday: All Open

Friday: All Open

Saturday: All Open. The Museum of San Marco open until 19:00. The Academia and Uffizzi open until 22:00.

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Weekend Trips, Outside of Florence

VENICE – Venezia is a must! An almost 3-hour train ride from Florence, be sure to stay on the train at Venice-Mestre, until you go to Venice proper. You can either walk to the San Marco piazza, with the fantastic San Marco Basilica by following the yellow signs that point you in that direction OR take the vaporetto/ or water taxi. The boat is a great way to see Venice, but walking through the twisting alleys is also a treat. In fact, after dark, treat yourself to a tour of Venice on Vaporettos 1 or 82. One time Collier, family and I rented a gondola, by the Rialto Bridge, and while it was expensive, with everyone chipping in, it was affordable. And fun. Yellow signs will point you in the direction of the Rialto Bridge as well.

            I’ve stayed in the Hotel Caneva, which has rooms right on a canal, so you’re right there by the action. Watery steps deliver gondola passengers to the lobby. Tel. is 041-5228118. it is also listed in Fodor’s Up Close Italy. Also, the Locanda Eden was decent; tel. 041-720228. for a fancy place, you can stay outside of Venice in the Ramada Hotel Venezia – San Giuliano, located near the bridge connecting the mainland with Venice; tel. 041-5312278. Check the Rick Steves book for other listings. Also, reference the Cheap Eats for restaurants; I do not have a favorite.

            Besides seeing the city itself, it is notable to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum; sit out in the garden behind the museum on the Grand Canal and watch life go by. There is also a museum called the Galleria Dell’ Academia with important art.

            Venice is filled with Murano glass jewelry and objects, with Venetian lace, and with elegant masks for Carnavale (Mardi Gras). It is worthwhile to look a these stores just to take in the experience of Venice. Once I stumbled upon a workshop where they were making gondolas. Fascinating to watch and to learn the history of the boats and the craft. The job of gondolier is coveted. The absurdly lucrative occupation is open only to the descendants of gondoliers, and their union is one of Venice’s most powerful.

            Sitting out on San Marco square to watch the pigeons and the people promises a pleasant time. Some people have enjoyed visiting Harry’s Bar (Calle Vallaresso 1323) and the Hard Rock Café. Notable gelaterias are Il Doge and Mille Voglie (see Fodor’s for addresses).

            The third weekend in July is a big festival with fireworks, etc. While it might seem exciting to visit then, rooms are hard to come by and the pickpockets flock to Venice. I accidentally ended up there, on this fateful weekend, my first time in Venice. My traveling companion’s purse, traveler’s checks, passport, etc, were stolen. BE VERY CAREFUL about taking out the contents of backpacks, purses, wallets, and the like, out in the open where thieves can take stock of your valuables. At the time, replacing all of the above was very difficult as the closest embassy was in Trieste. Plan your visits carefully.

            Taking a boat out to Murano Island (Vaporetto # 12) or to Burano and Torcello is an enjoyable outing. Or, you might try the Lido.

About 1 ½ hr. away train ride is VERONA (and then, 2 ¾ back to Florence). The House of Juliet is there. Remember, “In fair Verona, where we lay or scene” from Romeo and Juliet. Also, there is a Roman arena where operas, like Aida or Carmen are staged (I saw Aida here once, under a full moon, hard, stone seats, so bring a cushion/pillow/coat). Gates open at 7:00; show at 9:00. bring a candle – everybody light one up when the show starts. Phone for tickets: 045-8005151. Around 35,00 lira (and 15% more if you buy it more than one day in advance). Since the performance lasts so late, you’; probably stay in Verona; I doubt the trains would run that late to Florence.  

ASSISI – Across the golden Umbria plain, the pink stones of Assisi shimmer in the hear of the summer sun. the approach to Assisi is a vivid memory. Assisi can be reached by train; a couple of changes along the way.

Assisi is, of course, the home of St. Francis. The San Francesco Basilica is stupendous – or was, until an earthquake hit it; you’ll have to see it for yourself (Giotto and Cimabue here). Explore the church’s gift shop for St. Francis souvenirs, his prayer, rosaries, and the like.

            The Basilica Di Santa Chiara/St. Clare is where one can view the mummified body of Clare, as well as the cross that talked to St. Francis.

            Outside of the town is the “Eremo Delle Carcerti,” which was one of St. Francis’s favorite place for meditation. It is also where he had his bed carved out of rock. Splurge: take a taxi!

            A “must” eatery is the La Stalla. 1 km outside of town, the gate on the opposite end of town from the San Francesco Basilica. You eat out under a vineyard, overlooking the Umbrian plain, dining on grilled chicken and polenta. Truly a treat. In town (I think somewhere near the church of St. Clare) is the Degli Orti on the Via Salita Degli Orti.

            I stayed at the Anfiteatro (by the Anfiteatro Romano), off of the Piazza Nuova. The tel. (at that time) was 075-813025. Or you can contact the English-speaking Pilgrim Center, tel. 075-812918. They can suggest convents or monasteries where you can stay, or religious houses that offer lodging.  

CINQUE TERRE – This breathtaking area of the Italian Rivera consists of five tiny villages (from east to west): Riomaggiore, Manarola, Cornigilia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare. These villages hang on cliffsides over the Mediterranean, nestled among vineyards and olive orchards. There is a hiking trail that runs between all villages and takes 5 hours to hike the length one way. There is great train service that connects the towns, as well. One hotel that I have spotted is Hotel Ca’dAdrean in Manarola. Fodor says that it is 100,000 lire per night for a double room. Tel is 0187/920040. Other hotels are listed in tour books. Since Cincque Terre is “discovered,” it might be worth making a reservation beforehand. If you don’t hike the entire trail, at least hike the Via Della Amore from Rimaggiore to Manarola (15 min). Also, the wine is only sold here in Cinque Terre; you will not see it exported elsewhere. Try it; buy it! Seaside eating is fantastic! 

SORRENTO, AMALFI COASTLINE, ISLE OF CAPRI, POMPEII, AND HERCULANEUMYou will visit Rome, but will not get south of Rome during that tour. This area south of Naples is fantastic, if you should want to venture that far. Naples is reputed to be somewhat difficult city; I merely used it as a transportation point and went directly onto Sorrento to stay. I used that town as a base to take a boat out to Capri, the train to Pompeii (I didn’t get to see Herculaneum), and rented a moped in Sorrento to scoot along the Amalfi coastline. All was beautiful. Since I went as part of a package fly/hotel deal, I don’t have hotels or eateries to recommend. However, I can say it was an incredible area. On Capri we hired a taxi driver to take us around to show us the sights – a beautiful way to see the isle.

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Day Trips Around Florence

FIESOLE – Fiesole is a beautiful hilltop town 20 min. outside of Florence. (Catch bus by the Duomo; check bus schedule.) When museums in Florence are closed on Monday, the museums are open in Fiesole. Check Fodor’s Up Close, or Rick Steves’ guide.

Notable: there is a cultural festival, the Estate Fiesolana running nightly from late June to August, with most events taking place in the Teatro Romano. Pick up pamphlets around Florence, as well as Fiesole.

SAN GIMIGNANO – about 2 hours southwest of Florence is this city of many towers (originally 70 plus). You can go by bus or train, or a combination of both. Direction Poggibonsi. Check bus and train schedule.

Notable: this city, itself, is the attraction. Also, see the Museo Civico and the Duomo Collegiata. In the Duomo are frescoes by Barna da Siena (I think he is the artist that stepped back on the scaffolding to view the end of the New Testament’s final scene of the Resurrection and fell to his death). Bummer.

VOLTERRA – yet another hilltop fortress, beautiful in its setting. Tour books say that train travel to Volterra is almost nonexistent, but buses go there.

Notable: the churches, an Etruscan museum, and the Pinacoteca Comunale. Also, there is a Teatro Romano, one of the best preserved Roman remains in Tuscany; it is north of the city gates. Volterra is known for its alabaster trade; the shops are filled with various carvings from this stone. Good place to eat (recommended by local): Osteria dei Poeti (ask directions).

PISA – as in, the Tower of. It is an amazing sight. The streets are lined with tacky, but wacky and fun souvenirs. Take away a Leaning Tower “floaty” pen. Open air marker day is Wednesday.

It is estimated that the Tower, supported by a foundation that’s just under 32 sq. ft., sinks about 1 millimeter every year.

By train from Florence, then you must take a bus to the Tower. Be sure to see the Duomo that is next to the Tower.

SIENA – about an hour by bus from Florence.  A must see for an artist to witness the “siena” color. Reference your tour books for all the highlights of this beautiful city. Be sure to see Il Campo, where the famous Palio horse race is staged every July 2 and August 16. they haul in dirt and pack the square for the event. The dirt may still be there that first week in July.

CORTONA – by train from Florence, 1 hour. While I have never been there, I understand there are many summer university programs that are located here; the city is reputed to be beautiful. It is written about in Under the Tuscan Sun.

Reference tour books about the highlights. Some paintings by Fra Angelico.

VINCI – the home of Leonardo. Two museums there honor him. Watch the English video on Leonrado to learn what an incredibly gifted man he was. Check local train and bus times.

LUCCA – a beautiful walled city where you can walk the ramparts of the city, perfectly preserved and encircling the entire town. One ¼ hours by train from Florence.

Notable: walk around the city and the ramparts, and visit the Duomo to see Tintoretto’s Last Supper, as well as works by Ghirlandaio, and Fra Bartolomeo. If you climb the Torre Guinigi, there is a full grown tree at the top of this tower. Puccini’s house in on Via Di Poggio; Puccini was born in Lucca and studied music there before moving to Milan.

DURING THE DAY: also, be sure to see the sights in Florence:

n      Museum of the Duomo, with Michaelangelo’s last Pieta

n      The Medici Tombs

n      Casa Buonarroti, with Michaelangelo’s Madonna of the Stairs

n      Museo di S. Marco (Museum of St. Mark), with works by Fra Angelico, Ghirlandaio, and Della Robbia

n      Florence The Way It Was (Museo Firenze com era); Via dellOriuolo 24. 9-2 hrs. week/Sat.; 8-1 Sun. includes the history and appearance of Florence back to its beginnings.

n      Giotto’s Bell Tower. Try climbing this tower next to the Duomo; great vistas of Florence.

n      Cupola Del Duomo. Try climbing the 463 steps to the summit; an intimate encounter with the double shell of the dome. Until Brunelleschi, nobody had built such a massive dome since Roman times; he visited Rome to study 2^nd C. A.D. Pantheon in order to reinvent the ancient technique of building upwards in decreasing circle of interlocking brick.

n      Piazzale Michaelangelo – across the Arno from the Duomo.

Big statue of David; where the locals promenade in evenings.

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Author Collier Parker
Copyright © 2001  [Delta State University]. All rights reserved.
Revised: 07/19/04.